Lykogremo

LYKOGREMO is a very impressive new sector that resembles a sharp mountain peak in miniature, Lykógremo sits on on the narrow spine of the Maléas peninsula. The surroundings are a 360-degree view, sounds and aromas of nature, and…not much else. According to the locals, it is a cliff only for wolves— and that is exactly what the name means.

Climbing: On high-quality, very compact and solid limestone in vertical or slightly overhanging angles with distinct cruxes. At the north section, shorter routes often on cliffs with white moss. In total, there are 41 routes with grades ranging between 5b and 8a+.

☁ Shade: After 11:00 (north sector); until 14:00 (west sector)

Conditions: Good for year-round climbing. On warm days in spring, fall, and even summer, climb the west face in the morning and the north face in the afternoon. In winter, when the wind is not too bad, climb the west sector in the afternoons. On very windy days, the north sector is relatively protected.

Exposure: N, W

Gear: A single 60m rope; 12 QDs (routes up to 20m); or 16 QDs (routes up to 25m)

Kids: The path is short and good. Add to that the good, even areas under the cliffs, and the sector is fairly good for kids and families.

Approach: (walking time: 5–8 minutes) From the main parking area of Zobolo turn left onto a new concrete road. Drive 1.1km along this road until it ends at the chapel of Agia Marina (36.439798, 23.139740).

At the chapel, turn left again onto a fairly smooth dirt road for 4km headed NE and up to the mountain. At the hairpin turn 4km further, park on the right side of the road.

Walk on the path following cairns onto the hillside to the west sector (5 min). To get to the north sector, continue along the base of the cliffs for another 3 min (8 min from parking).